SIZE: Small, Medium, Large, 1X, 2X, 3X
Finished Bust About 55 1/2 (61 1/2, 66 1/2, 72 1/2, 78 1/2, 84 1/2) in. (141 (156, 170, 184, 199.5, 214.5) cm
Finished Length About 43 1/2 (44, 44 1/2, 45, 45 1/2, 46) in. (110.5 (112, 113, 114.5, 115.5, 117) cm)
Note: Pattern is written for smallest size with changes for larger sizes in parentheses. When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes. To follow pattern more easily, circle all numbers pertaining to your size before beginning.
GAUGE:
18 sts + 20 rows = 4 in. (10 cm) in Honeycomb pattern with 2 strands of yarn held tog and larger needles.
When you match the gauge in a pattern, your project will be the size specified in the pattern and the materials specified in the pattern will be sufficient. The needle or hook size called for in the pattern is based on what the designer used, but it is not unusual for gauge to vary from person to person. If it takes you fewer stitches and rows to make your swatch, try using a smaller size hook or needles; if more stitches and rows, try a larger size hook or needles.
Making a Gauge Swatch
STITCH EXPLANATION:
2/2 LC (2 over 2 left cross) Slip 2 sts to cable needle and hold in front of work, k2, then k2 from cable needle.
2/2 RC (2 over 2 right cross) Slip 2 sts to cable needle and hold in back of work, k2, then k2 from cable needle.
kfb (knit in front and back) Knit next st without removing it from left needle, then k through back of same st – 1 st increased.
PATTERN STITCHES
K1, p1 Rib (worked over an odd number of sts)
Row 1: K1, *p1, k1; rep from * to end of row.
Row 2: K the knit sts and p the purl sts.
Rep Row 2 for K1, p1 Rib.
Honeycomb Pattern (worked over a multiple of 8 sts)
Row 1 (RS): Knit.
Row 2 and All WS Rows: Purl.
Row 3: *2/2 RC, 2/2 LC; rep from *.
Row 5: Knit.
Row 7: *2/2 LC, 2/2 RC; rep from *.
Row 8: Purl.
Rep Rows 1-8 for Honeycomb pattern.
NOTES:
1. Cardigan is worked in 7 pieces, Back, 2 Fronts and 2 Sleeves in a Honeycomb pattern and 2 Pocket Linings.
2. Two strands of yarn are held together and used as one unless otherwise noted.
3. A circular needle is used to accommodate the large number of sts. Work back and forth on the circular needle as if working on straight needles.4. This pattern contains the words, AT THE SAME TIME, in several places. Don't worry! This simply means that you will be doing 2 things at once – shaping both the neck and the armhole for example. Just keep careful track of where you are in the pattern and you shouldn't have any difficulty.
5. End with a WS row means that the last row you work should be a WS row, and the next row that you are ready to work will be a RS row.
6. When you see "– 12 sts" in the instructions, this lets you know how many sts you will have at the end of that specific row.
BACK
With smaller needle and 2 strands of yarn held tog, cast on 99 (107, 115, 123, 139, 147) sts.
Working back and forth in rows on circular needle, work in K1, p1 rib for 3 1/2 in. (9 cm), end with a WS row as the last row you work, inc 15 sts spaced as evenly as possible across last row – you will have 114 (122, 130, 138, 154, 162) sts.Change to larger needle.
Row 1 (RS): K1, work Row 1 of Honeycomb pattern to last st, k1.
Keeping first and last st in St st (k on RS, p on WS) and rem sts in Honeycomb pattern, work until piece measures about 33 in. (84 cm) from beg, end with a WS row as the last row you work.
Shape Armholes
Bind off 4 (5, 6, 7, 8, 9) sts at beg of next 4 rows, 3 (4, 5, 6, 7, 8) sts at beg of next 2 rows, 2 (2, 2, 2, 4, 4) sts at beg of next 4 rows, then 1 st at beg of next 2 (4, 4, 6, 6, 8) rows – 82 (82, 84, 84, 86, 86) sts rem after all bind offs have been work.
Keeping first and last sts in St st and rem sts in Honeycomb pattern as established, work until armholes measure 9 (9 1/2, 10, 10 1/2, 11, 11 1/2) in. (23 (24, 25.5, 26.5, 28, 29) cm), end with a WS row as the last row you work.
Shape Neck and Shoulders
Mark center 24 sts for back neck.
Row 1 (RS): Bind off 8 (8, 9, 9, 10, 10) sts, work to center 24 sts, join another 2 balls of yarn and bind off center 24 sts for neck, work to end of row – 21 sts for right shoulder; 29 (29, 30, 30, 31, 31) sts for left shoulder.
Row 2: Working both sides AT THE SAME TIME, each side with 2 strands of yarn (2 balls of yarn on each side), bind off 8 (8, 9, 9, 10, 10) sts, purl to end of left shoulder; p2tog, purl to end of right shoulder – 21 sts for left shoulder; 20 sts for right shoulder.
Row 3: Bind off 7 sts, work to end of right shoulder; k2tog, work to end of left shoulder – 13 sts for right shoulder; 20 sts for left shoulder.
Row 4: Bind off 7 sts, purl to end of lefts; purl to end of right shoulder – 13 sts for each shoulder.
Row 5: Bind off 7 sts, work to end of right shoulder; work to end of row for Left Shoulder – 6 sts for right shoulder; 13 sts for left shoulder.
Row 6: Bind off 7 sts, purl to end of left shoulder; purl to end of right shoulder – 6 sts for each shoulder.
Row 7: Bind off all sts for right shoulder; work to end of row for left shoulder – 6 sts for left shoulder.
Row 8: Bind off 6.
POCKET LININGS (Make 2)
With smaller needle and just one strand of yarn, cast on 25 sts.
Work in St st (knit on RS, purl on WS) until piece measures 10 in. (25.5 cm) from beg, end with a WS row as the last row you work.
Slip sts to a st holder.
Note: Both the Left and the Right Front have knit in pockets. To add the pockets, you'll simply bind off some sts on the Front – this makes the opening edge of the pocket. On the following row, you'll work across the pocket lining sts, thus joining them to the Front. The lining will be sewn down later, when you sew the Cardigan together.
With smaller needle and 2 strands of yarn held tog, cast on 57 (65, 73, 81, 89, 97) sts.
Working back and forth in rows on circular needle, work in K1, p1 rib for 3 1/2 in. (9 cm), end with a WS row as the last row you work,, inc 9 sts as evenly spaced as possible across last row – you will have 66 (74, 82, 90, 98, 106) sts.
Change to larger needle.
Row 1 (RS): K1, work Row 1 of Honeycomb pattern to last st, k1.
Keeping first and last st in St st and rem sts in Honeycomb pattern, work until piece measures about 22 in. (56 cm) from beg, end with a WS row as the last row you work.
Join Pocket
Next Row (RS): Work 24 (32, 40, 48, 56, 64) sts, bind off next 25 sts for pocket, work to end of row.
Next Row: Work 17 sts as established, work across 25 sts of one pocket lining from st holder, work to end of row – 66 (74, 82, 90, 98, 106) sts.
Keeping first and last st in St st and rem sts in Honeycomb pattern, work until piece measures about 28 in. (71 cm) from beg, end with a WS row as the last row you work.
Shape Neck
Neck Dec Row (RS): Work as established to last 2 sts, k2tog – 65 (73, 81, 89, 97, 105) sts rem.
Keeping first and last st in St st and rem sts in Honeycomb pattern, rep Neck Dec Row on every RS row 21 (25, 29, 33, 33, 37) more times AT THE SAME TIME, when piece measures 33 in. (84 cm) from beg, end with a WS row and beg to shape armhole as follows:
(Note: You will be continuing the neck shaping AND shaping the armhole at the same time. This isn't hard to do – you just need to keep careful count on where you are in the pattern st, and in the various shapings. You may have an app for this – but if not, pencil and paper will work fine!)
Shape Armhole
Bind off 4 (5, 6, 7, 8, 9) sts at beg of next RS row 2 times, then bind off 3 (4, 5, 6, 7, 8) sts at beg of next RS row, 2 (2, 2, 2, 4, 4) sts at beg of next RS row 2 times, then 1 st at beg of next RS row 1 (2, 2, 3, 3, 4) time(s).
Keeping first and last sts in St st and rem sts in Honeycomb pattern as established, work until armhole measures same as Back armhole, end with a WS row as the last row you work – 28 (28, 29, 29, 30, 30) sts rem when all shaping has been done.
Shape Shoulder
Bind off 8 (8, 9, 9, 10, 10) sts at beg of the next RS row, 7 sts at beg of next RS row 2 times.
At beg of next RS row, bind off rem sts.
RIGHT FRONT
Cast on and work as for Left Front to Join Pocket.
Join Pocket
Next Row (RS): Work 17 sts, bind off 25 sts, work 24 (32, 40, 48, 56, 64) sts.
Next Row: Work 24 (32, 40, 48, 56, 64) sts, work across 25 sts of one pocket lining from st holder, work to end of row – 66 (74, 82, 90, 98, 106) sts.
Keeping first and last st in St st and rem sts in Honeycomb pattern, work until piece measures about 28 in. (71 cm) from beg, end with a WS row as the last row you work.
Shape Neck
Neck Dec Row (RS): K2tog, work to end of row – 65 (73, 81, 89, 97, 105) sts rem.
Keeping first and last st in St st and rem sts in Honeycomb pattern, rep Neck Dec Row every other row 21 (25, 29, 33, 33, 37) more times, AT THE SAME TIME, when piece measures same length as Left Front to armhole, end with a RS row as the last row you work.
Shape Armhole
Bind off 4 (5, 6, 7, 8, 9) sts at beg of next WS row 2 times, then bind off 3 (4, 5, 6, 7, 8) sts at beg of next WS row, 2 (2, 2, 2, 4, 4) sts at beg of next WS row 2 times, then 1 st at beg of next WS row 1 (2, 2, 3, 3, 4) time(s).
Keeping first and last sts in St st and rem sts in Honeycomb pattern as established, work until armhole measures same as Back armhole, end with a RS row as the last row you work – 28 (28, 29, 29, 30, 30) sts rem when all shaping has been done.
Shape Shoulder
Bind off 8 (8, 9, 9, 10, 10) sts at beg of next WS row, 7 sts at beg of next WS row 2 times.
At beg of next WS row, bind off rem sts.
SLEEVES (make 2)
With smaller needle and 2 strands of yarn held tog, cast on 59 (59, 59, 67, 67, 67) sts.
Beg with Row 1, work in K1, p1 rib for 3 1/2 in. (9 cm), end with a WS row as last row worked, inc 7 sts as evenly spaced as possible along last row – 66 (66, 66, 74, 74, 74) sts on last row worked.
Change to larger needle.
Row 1 (RS): K1, work Row 1 of Honeycomb pattern to last st, k1.
Keeping first and last st in St st and rem sts in Honeycomb pattern, work 6 more rows.
Inc Row (RS): Kfb, work to last st, kfb – 68 (68, 68, 76, 76, 76) sts.
Rep Inc Row every 8th row 0 (1, 3, 1, 5, 7) time(s), working increased sts in St st until you have increased enough sts to work them into the Honeycomb pattern, until piece measures 18 in. (45.5 cm) from beg, end with a WS row as the last row you work.
Shape Top of Sleeve
Bind off 4 (4, 4, 4, 5, 5) sts at beg of next 4 rows, 3 sts at beg of next 4 rows, 2 sts at beg of next 8 rows, then 1 st at beg of next 14 (16, 20, 22, 24, 28) rows – 10 (10, 10, 12, 14, 14) sts rem after all bind offs have been worked.
Bind off.
FINISHING
Sew shoulder seams.
Sew in Sleeves. Sew side and Sleeve seams. With RS together, fold Pocket Linings in half and sew cast-on edge to bind-off edge of pocket opening on each Front. Sew side edges of Pocket Linings closed.
Pocket Edging
From RS with smaller, shorter needle and 2 strands of yarn held tog, pick up and k25 sts along bind-off edge of pocket opening.
Work in K1, p1 rib for 6 rows.
Bind off in rib.
Rep for opposite pocket.
Sew sides of pocket edgings to Fronts.
Mark for 5 buttons spaced evenly along Left Front edge with first at beg of neck shaping and last 5 in. (12.5 cm) above lower edge.
Frontband
From RS with smaller needle, and 2 strands of yarn held tog, beg at lower edge of Right Front, pick up and k283 (291, 299, 307, 315, 323) sts as evenly spaced as possible up Right Front, around Back neck and down edge of Left Front, ending at lower edge of Left Front – 283 (291, 299, 307, 315, 323) sts.
Work in K1, p1 rib for 3 rows.
Buttonhole Row (RS): Continue in K1, p1 rib, binding off 3 sts at each button marker.
Next Row: Work in K1, p1 rib, casting on 3 sts above bind-off sts of previous row.
Work 2 more rows in K1, p1 rib.
Bind off.
Sew buttons opposite buttonholes.
Weave in ends.
ABBREVIATIONS / REFERENCES
beg = begin(s)(ning) dec = decreas(e)(s)(ing)
inc = increas(e)(s)(ing) k = knit
k2tog = knit 2 together p = purl
p2tog = purl 2 together rem = remain(s)(ing)
rep = repeat(s)(ing) RS = right side
St st = Stockinette stitch st(s) = stitch(es)
tog = together WS = wrong side
source - Chillingworth Cabled Long Cardigan