MaterialsFor the purposes of this tutorial I am using Scheepjeswol Cotton 8 (available from Deramores) and a 3.25 mm Clover Amour Crochet Hook (US D/3 UK 10)
Cotton 8 Soft - fun Stonewashed XL
Round 16 Canary Canary Deep Amathyst
Round 17 Light Pink Light Rose Deep Amathyst
Round 18 Pink Rose Lemon Quartz
Round 19 Fuchsia Bordeaux Lemon Quartz
Round 20 Moors Cyclamen Green Agate
Round 21 Light Green Olive Green Agate
Round 22 Turquoise Dark Turquoise Amazonite
Round 23 Light Turquoise Light Blue Amazonite
Round 24 Light Turquoise Light Blue Moonstone
Round 25 Light Turquoise Light Blue Moonstone
Size
Large Medium Small
Sophie’s Universe (End of Part 3) 50 cm (just under 20 “) 40 cm (just under 16″) 30 cm (just under 12″)
AbbreviationsCh – Chain
Dc – Double crochet
Fpdc – Front post double crochet
Fpdtr – Front post double treble
Fptr – Front post treble crochet
Hdc – Half-double crochet
Sc – Single crochet
Sl st – Slip stitch
St/st’s – Stitch/stitches
* – Repeat instructions between asterisks the amount of times specified. This is a hardcore repeat and will consist of multiple instructions.
() – Repeat instructions between parentheses the amount of times specified. This is a lower level repeat.
Special Stitches
Cluster : Dc3tog – see this tutorial.
Crab stitch: This stitch is also known as the reverse single crochet. See this tutorial.
Popcorn stitch: Make 5 dc’s in the same stitch. Remove your hook from the last stitch. Insert your hook into the first dc of the 5 dc’s. Grab the last stitch with your hook and pull it through the first stitch. Ch 1. See this tutorial.
Standing Stitches: Standing sc’s, hdc’s, and dc’s are stitches used to start the round without the need for the traditional beginning chain. Links to tutorials are supplied in each relevant round.
Instructions
Rounds 1 – 15
You can find the links for Rounds 9-15 HERE.
Round 16
Hint: The hdc’s worked into the picots should fall in the 4th sc made into the ch-6 space.
If you are going to use the same colour, sl st into the next st and then ch 2 (this counts as your first hdc). Hdc in the next 3 st’s.
If you are going to use a different colour, start with a standing half-double crochet in the st after the sl st join. Hdc in the next 3 st’s {Photo 1}.
*Catch the picot by making a hdc through the picot from Round 13 and into the next st of Round 15 (so through both layers as before) – see Photo 2. Hdc in the next 5 st’s {Photo 3} and make a fptr around the post of the fpdc from Round 14 {Photo 4}. Skip the next st of Round 15 and Make 2 hdc’s in the next st {indicated with an arrow in Photo 5 and illustrated in Photo 6}. Fptr around the same fpdc from Round 14 {Photo 7}. Skip the next st of Round 15 and hdc in the next 4 st’s {Photo 8}.* Repeat from * to * 11 more times, omitting the last 4 hdc’s on the last repeat {Photo 9}. Join to the top of the beginning ch-2 (or standing hdc) with a sl st.Stitch Count: 168 st’s {144 hdc’s and 24 fptr’s}
Round 17 - If you are going to use the same colour, ch 1 and sc in the same st. Sc in the next 4 st’s {Photo 1}. If you are going to use a different colour, start with a standing single crochet in the same st as the sl st join. Sc in the next 4 st’s.*Fpdc around the picot from Round 13 {indicated with an arrow in Photo 1 and illustrated in Photos 2 and 3}. Skip the next st from Round 16 and sc in the next 6 st’s {Photo 4}. Make 2 sc’s in the next st {Photo 5}. Sc in the next 6 st’s {Photo 6}.* Repeat from * to * 11 more times, omitting the last 5 sc’s on the last repeat. Join to the top of the first sc with a sl st. Stitch Count: 180 st’s {168 sc’s and 12 fpdc’s
Note - In the next 3 rounds, Sophie has a tendency to buckle. This will correct itself in Rounds 21 and 22, so don’t worry about it. If your stitch count is spot on, you’ll be fine.Round 18 - Update: A few of you seem to be struggling with this round. I have now linked to a better tutorial (by Tamara from Moogly) to make it easier for you to understand how the popcorn should be made. Remember that the 5-dc popcorn stitch is closed with a ch st. If you are going to use the same colour, sl st into the next 3 st’s so that you end up in the second sc before the fpdc. Ch 2 (this counts as your first hdc). Hdc in the next st.
If you are going to use a different colour, start with a standing half-double crochet in the second sc before any fpdc from the previous round. Hdc in the next st {Photo 1}.
*Make a popcorn stitch in the next st, which will be the fpdc {Photo 2}. Hdc in the next 4 st’s {Photo 3}. Fptr around the fptr from Round 16 {Photo 5}. Skip the next st of Round 17 {indicated with an arrow in Photo 5}. Hdc in the next 2 st’s. Make 2 hdc’s in the next st. Hdc in the next 2 st’s {Photo 6}. Fptr around the fptr from Round 16 {Photo 7}. Skip the next st of Round 17. Hdc in the next 3 st’s {Photo 8}.* Repeat from * to * 11 more times, omitting the last 2 hdc’s on the last repeat. Join to the top of the beginning ch-2 (or the standing hdc) with a sl st. Stitch Count: 192 st’s {156 hdc’s, 12 popcorns and 24 fptr’s}
Round 19 - Identifying which “loops” to work into for the popcorn stitch: for the purposes of this pattern, the “top” of the popcorn stitch will be the first dc of the 5-dc’s used to create the popcorn. You will find the loops for this stitch immediately to the right and slightly behind the popcorn (to the left if you are left-handed) – see the arrow in Photo 2. When you work into the first dc of the 5-dc popcorn like this (Photo 2), you will skip the ch st on top of each popcorn (indicated with an arrow in Photo 1).If you are going to use the same colour, sl st to the popcorn stitch. Ch 3 (this counts as your first dc). If you are going to use a different colour, start with a standing double crochet in any popcorn stitch around {Photo 2}. Dc in the next 15 st’s. *Dc in the next stitch, which should be the Popcorn Stitch. Dc in the next 15 st’s.* Repeat from * to * 10 more times. Join to the top of the beginning ch-3 (or the standing dc) with a sl st. Photo 3 below shows the first dc after the Popcorn completed. Note the skipped ch st at the top of the Popcorn. Stitch Count: 192 dc’s
Round 20 - If you are going to use the same colour, ch 3 (this counts as your first dc). Dc in the next 3 st’s. If you are going to use a different colour, start with a standing double crochet in the same st as the sl st join. Dc in the next 3 st’s.
*Fpdtr around the fptr from Round 18 {Photo 1}. Skip the next st of Round 19 and dc in the next 10 st’s {Photo 2}. Fpdtr around the fptr from Round 18 {Photo 3}. Skip the next st of Round 19 and dc in the next 4 st’s {Photo 4}. The first dc should fall in the dc in the top of the popcorn stitch.* Repeat from * to * 11 more times, omitting the last 4 dc’s on the last repeat. Join to the top of the beginning ch-3 (or the standing double crochet) with a sl st.
Stitch Count: 192 st’s {168 dc’s and 24 fpdtr’s}
Round 21 - If you are going to use the same colour, ch 3 (this counts as your first dc). Dc in the next st.If you are going to use a different colour, start with a standing double crochet in the same st as the sl st join. Dc in the next st.
*Make 2 dc’s in the next st. Dc in the next 3 st’s. The last dc should fall in the dc after the fpdtr from the previous round {Photo 1}. (Ch 2 and make a cluster) three times {Photos 2 and 3}. Ch 2 and dc in the next 3 st’s {Photo 4}.* Repeat from * to * 11 more times, omitting the last 2 dc’s on the last repeat. Join to the top of the beginning ch-3 (or the standing double crochet) with a sl st.
Stitch Count: 132 st’s and 48 ch-2 spaces {96 dc’s and 36 clusters }
Round 22 - At this point, the “petals” formed by your front post stitches are almost complete. In this round, you will be forming the points of the petals.Do not worry if your mandala starts to curl in this round, it will straighten out in the next round.
If you are going to use the same colour, ch 1 and sc in the same st. Sc in the next 2 st’s.
If you are going to use a different colour, start with a standing single crochet in the same st as the sl st join. Sc in the next 2 st’s.
*Fpdtr around the fpdtr from Round 20 to the left of the popcorn stitch (right, if you are left-handed) – see Photo 1. Fpdtr around the fpdtr from Round 20 to the right of the popcorn stitch (left, if you are left-handed) – see Photo 2. Skip the next st of Round 21. Sc in the next 3 st’s {Photo 3}. (Make 2 sc’s in the next ch-2 space, sc in the top of the next cluster) three times. Make 2 sc’s in the last ch-2 space {Photo 4}. Sc in the next 4 st’s {Photo 5}.* Repeat from * to * 11 more times, omitting the last 3 sc’s on the last repeat. Join to the first sc with a sl st.
Stitch Count: 240 st’s {216 sc’s and 24 fpdtr’s}
Round 23 - Note: When working around the fpdtr’s from the previous round, you will make one fpdc around both posts (together) and skip the tops of these 2 st’s. The arrows in Photo 4 indicate the tops of the fpdtr’s that will be skipped.If you are going to use the same colour, ch 3 (this counts as your first dc). Dc in the next 2 st’s.
If you are going to use a different colour, start with a standing double crochet in the same st as the sl st join. Dc in the next 2 st’s {Photo 1}.
*Make a fpdc around the posts of both fpdtr’s from Round 22 {Photos 2 and 3}. See Note above if you need help with this. Dc in the next 18 sc’s {Photo 5}. Don’t accidentally skip the first sc after the fptr’s.* Repeat from * to * 11 more times, omitting the last 3 dc’s on the last repeat. Join to the top of the beginning ch-3 (or the standing double crochet) with a sl st.
Stitch Count: 228 st’s {216 dc’s and 12 fpdc’s}Round 24 - In this round, you will be making increases by working into the loops (tops) of the fpdc’s AND around the posts.
If you are going to use the same colour, ch 1 and sc in the same st. Sc in the next st.
If you are going to use a different colour, start with a standing single crochet in the same st as the sl st join. Sc in the next st.
*Hdc in the next 2 st’s. The last hdc should fall in the top of the fpdc from the previous round {Photo 1}. Fpdc around the post of the fpdc from the previous round {Photo 2}. Hdc in the next 2 st’s {Photo 3}. Sc in the next 15 st’s.* Repeat from * to * 11 more times, omitting the last 2 sc’s on the last repeat. Join to the first sc with a sl st. Fasten off and work away your tails of yarn.
Stitch Count: 240 st’s {180 sc’s, 48 hdc’s, and 12 fpdc’s}
Please Note: I have used Canary in the photos below to better illustrate the stitches, but I have used light turquoise in my final blanket.
Round 25 (Optional)
This round is optional. The crab stitch tends to make a lot of people “crabby”, but I quite like making it. Don’t worry if your mandala starts wobbling slightly when you make the crab stitch round. Once you’ve blocked it, it will be right as rain. Start in any stitch around with a standing single crochet (Photo 1). Make a crab stitch in each st around (Photos 2 and 3).
If you are not familiar with the crab stitch, see this video tutorial. When you get to the end of the round, make a crab stitch in the same stitch as the standing single crochet. No need to join with a sl st. In fact, I’ll give you an apple if you manage to do it! Just fasten off and work away your tails of yarn.Stitch Count: 240 crab stitches
See the “wobble” I was talking about? It looks a little bit worse in the photo than it actually was. source
Mandala Universe Part 1
Mandala Universe Part 2