A Little Zoo Animal
Size - 9.5″
Difficulty - Intermediate
Materials
4 mm crochet hook (US G/6 UK 8)
Worsted weight yarn (100 m)
Yarn needle
Stuffing
Abbreviations
US Terminology Used (see this comparative chart for US/UK conversion)
Blo – Back loop only
CC – Contrasting colour
Fpdc – Front-post double crochet
Hdc – Half-double crochet
MC – Main colour
Sc – Single crochet
Sc inc – Single crochet increase (make 2 sc’s in the same stitch)
Sc2tog – Single crochet 2 together (single crochet decrease)
() – When used inside instructions, you should repeat everything inside parentheses the amount of times specified. When used after instructions, the number between parentheses refers to the stitch count.
Special Stitches and Abbreviations
Popcorn st – Make 4 sc’s in the same stitch. Pull up a loop with the last stitch and remove your hook. Insert your hook into the first sc of the popcorn and pull the last loop through the first stitch. Ch 1 to close the popcorn.
RSM (Running stitch marker) – Place a piece of scrap yarn over your work before making the first stitch of a round. Flick this piece of yarn backwards/forwards over your work where indicated with RSM. This forms a running stitch up your work that will help you identify the beginning of each round.
Instructions
Legs - Make 4 in Main Colour
1- Ch 8. Join to the first ch with a sl st to form a ring. Place a piece of scrap yarn over your work to mark the first stitch. Working into the top loop only: sc in the same st as the sl st join and then sc in the next 7 ch’s. RSM (see Special Stitches and Abbreviations above). (8)
2- Skip the sl st. Sc in each of the 8 sc’s around. RSM (8)
3- (Sc inc in the next st, sc in the next 3 st’s) twice. RSM (10)
Sc in the next 5 st’s. Sc inc in the next st and sc in the last 4 st’s. RSM (11)
4- Sc inc in the next st, sc in the next 10 st’s. RSM (12)5- Sl st in the next st, ch 1 and bind off. Pull the last ch st tight to form a little knot.
Sl st in the next st, ch 1 and bind off. Pull the last ch st tight to form a little knot.
FeetMake 4 in Contrasting Colour
1- Into a magic ring: ch 1 and make 6 sc’s. Pull the ring tight. (6)
2- Sc inc in each of the 6 st’s around. Don’t bind off. (12)
Attaching the Feet to the Legs
Place the foot on top of the larger opening of the leg (the last round of the leg) like a lid, with the right side of the foot facing you. Insert your hook into the blo of the next st of the foot and through both loops of any stitch around the leg and make a sc. Make 11 more sc’s, working into the blo of the foot and both loops of the leg. Join to the first st with a sl st (or use the invisible join) and bind off. Repeat until each leg has a foot.
Stuffing the LegsPull all the tails of yarn into the leg, if you haven’t already done so, and stuff the leg (about ¾ full).
Head
The head uses short rows. These are just rows that do not begin and end where rows traditionally begin and end. I have indicated with (outside) or (inside) whether a specific short row should be worked with the outside of the head facing you or the inside.
1- With MC, ch 5 (Photo 1). Working in the top loops only, sc inc in the second chain from the hook. Sc in the next 2 chains and sc inc in the last chain (Photo 2). Continuing to work around the chain, sc in the unworked loops of each of the 4 ch st’s (Photo 3). This should bring you back to the first sc inc. Place a piece of scrap yarn over your work (RSM) – see Photo 4. (10)
2- Sc in the next st (Photo 5). Make 4 sc’s in the next st (Photo 6). Skip 2 st’s and make 4 sc’s in the next st (Photo 7). Sc in the next 2 st’s. Sc2tog. Sc in the last st (Photo 8). Flick the piece of scrap yarn back over your work before making the first st of the next round (Photo 9) – RSM. (13)3- Sc in each st around (Photo 10). RSM (13)
4- Sc in the next 2 st’s, sc inc in the next st, sc in the next 2 st’s and skip the next st. Sc in the next 2 st’s, sc inc in the next st, sc in the last 4 st’s. RSM (14)
5- Sc in the next 2 st’s, sc inc in the next st, sc in the next 7 st’s, sc inc in the next st, sc in the last 3 st’s. RSM (16)6- Sc in each st around. RSM (16)
7- Sc in the next 3 st’s, sc inc in the next st, sc in the next 8 st’s, sc inc in the next st, sc in the last 3 st’s. RSM (18)
8- Sc in the next 4 st’s, sc inc in the next st, sc in the next 8 sts, sc inc in the next st, sc in the last 4 st’s. RSM (20)
Note: The 2 sc inc’s should fall on the sides of the jaw when folded flat (Photo 11).
9- Short Row (outside): Make 12 sc’s. Sl st in the next st (Photo 12) and turn, leaving the remaining stitches unworked. (12)
10- Short Row (inside): Skip the sl st (indicated with an arrow in Photo 13 and illustrated in Photo 14). Sc inc in the next 2 st’s and sl st in the next st (Photo 15), leaving the remaining st’s of Short Row 9 unworked. TURN. (4)
11- Short Row (outside): Skip the sl st (indicated with an arrow in Photo 16). Place a piece of scrap yarn over your work before making the next st. This is where you will add your first eye later on. Sc inc in the first sc, sc in the next 2 st’s. Place another piece of scrap yarn over your work before making the next st. This is where you will add your second eye later on. Sc inc in the last sc of Short Row 10 (Photo 17). This will bring you to the “step”. Sl st in the next available st of Short Row 9 (indicated with an arrow in Photo 18) and turn. Please note that the stitch at the base of the step already contains a sl st and should be skipped. (6)
12- Short Row (inside): Skip the sl st. Sc inc in the first sc. Sc in the next 4 sc’s and sc inc in the last sc before the “step”. See that loopy bit of yarn in Photo 20? Each step will have a loop like that at the base of the step. Sl st in the next available st of Short Row 10 and turn. (8) Photo 21 shows you Short row completted after turning. Photo 22 shows you what your head should look like at this point when folded flat.
13- Short Row (outside): Skip the sl st. Sc inc in the first sc, sc in the next 6 sc’s, sc inc in the last sc before the “step”. Sc in the next available st of Round 8 (indicated with an arrow in Photo 23). Sc in each of the remaining 5 st’s of Round 8. This should bring you to the RSM (Photo 24). From this point on, you are again working in a spiral, so do not turn. RSM (16)
14- Sc in the next 8 st’s of Short Row 9. This will bring you to the step. Working into the st’s of Short Row 13 (after the step – see Photo 25), sc in the next 10 st’s. Skip the next st (indicated with an arrow in Photo 26) and sc in the last 5 st’s. RSM (23)
15- Sc in the next 7 st’s, skip the next st and sc in the next 15 st’s. RSM (22)
16- Sc in the next 6 st’s, sc2tog, sc in the next 8 st’s, sc2tog, sc in the last 4 st’s. RSM (20)
17- Bridge Row: (Sc in the next 6 st’s, sc2tog) twice. Sc in the next 2 st’s. There should now be 2 st’s of Round 16 left unworked. Draw up a long loop with your yarn, but do not bind off. (16)
Photos 27 – 29 show you what your head should look like at this point.
This is a good time to stuff the head and add the eyes (if you are using safety eyes). If you are going to embroider the eyes, you can do that once you’ve finished the crocodile.
Body
The body is made with a Contrasting Colour underbelly worked in rows from the head. You will then add the legs to the underbelly and work Main Colour sides followed by a Main Colour back.
To attach the sides and back, you will be working into the rows of the underbelly. If you have trouble identifying the ends of the rows, place a stitch marker in the first st of each row of the underbelly. This is tedious but helpful if you cannot yet identify row ends.
Underbelly
Anette says: “Feel free to work the underbelly in the back loops only. This will give you an awesome ridged effect.”
Dedri says: “Man, I wish she had said that before I did the photos. Now my crocodile looks pants compared to hers!”
1- Join your CC yarn by making a standing single crochet in the next st (the stitch after the last stitch of the head – see Photo 1). Sc in the next 5 st’s (Photo 2). Ch 1 and turn (Photo 3). (6)
2- Sc in each st across (Photo 4). Ch 1 and turn. (6)
3- Sc inc in the first st, sc in the next 4 st’s, sc inc in the last st. Ch 1 and turn. (8)
4- Sc in each st across. Ch 1 and turn. (8)
5- Sc in each st across. Ch 1 and turn. (8)
6- Sc in each st across. Ch 1 and turn. (8)
7- Sc in each st across. Ch 1 and turn. (8)
8- Sc in each st across. Ch 1 and turn. (8)
9-Sc inc in the first st, sc in the next 6 st’s, sc inc in the last st. Ch 1 and turn. (10)
10- Sc in each st across. Ch 1 and turn. (10)
11- Sc in each st across. Ch 1 and turn. (10)
12- Sc in each st across. Ch 1 and turn. (10)
13-Sc in each st across. Ch 1 and turn. (10)
14- Sc in each st across. Ch 1 and turn. (10)
15- Sc2tog, sc in the next 6 st’s, sc2tog. Ch 1 and turn. (8)
16- Sc in each st across. Ch 1 and turn. (8)
17- Sc in each st across. Ch 1 and turn. (8)
18- Sc in each st across. Ch 1 and turn. (8)
19- Sc2tog, sc in the next 4 st’s, sc2tog. Ch 1 and turn. (6)
20- Sc in each st across. Ch 1 and bind off. (6)
Attaching the Legs - You are now going to make a MC border all around the underbelly, while attaching the legs at the same time. There are 20 rows of underbelly and you will be working into each of these rows.
Pick up the dropped loop from the head. Hold the crocodile so that his mouth is pointing towards your right (left if you are left-handed) and the outside of the underbelly is facing you (Photo 1) Place a piece of scrap yarn over your work.Sc in the side of the first 3 rows of the underbelly (Photos 2 and 3).
Fold one of the legs flat and place it on top of the underbelly so that the foot is pointing toward you and the first round of the leg is lined up with the side of the underbelly (Photo 4). Insert your hook through both layers of the first st of the folded leg AND into the next row of the underbelly (Photo 5) and make a sc (Photo 6). Make 2 more sc’s through all 3 layers, working into the next 2 st’s of the leg and the next 2 rows of the underbelly (Photo 7).
Sc in the next 8 rows of the underbelly (Photo 8). Attach the second leg as before, again making 3 sc’s through both layers (Photos 9 and 10)Sc in the next 8 rows of the underbelly (Photo 8). Attach the second leg as before, again making 3 sc’s through both layers (Photos 9 and 10)
Sc in the next 2 rows of the underbelly (Photo 11). (Sc, ch 1, sc) in the last st of Row 20 of the underbelly (indicated with an arrow in Photo 11 and illustrated in Photo 12). Place a st marker in the ch-1 space. Sc in the next 4 st’s of Row 20 of the underbelly (Photo 13). (Sc, ch 1, sc) in the first st of Row 20 of the underbelly (indicated with an arrow in Photo 13 and illustrated in Photo 14). Place a st marker in the ch-1 space.
You will now continue down the other side of the underbelly. Sc in the next 2 rows (Photo 16).Attach the third leg as before (with 3 sc’s through both the leg AND the underbelly). Sc in the next 8 rows (Photo 17). Attach the last leg with 3 sc’s. Sc in the last 3 rows of the underbelly. This will bring you back to the head. Do not bind off (Photo 18).
Just look at that. More roadkill than crocodile…but not for long!
First Side - You will now add 3 rows to one side of the underbelly. Sl st in the next 2 st’s of the head (Photos 1 and 2) and turn so that the inside of the crocodile is facing you. Skip the 2 sl st’s (Photo 3) and sc in each of the 20 st’s down the side of the belly (Photo 4). This will bring you to the st marker. Ch 1 and turn so that the outside of the crocodile is facing you. (20) Sc in each of the 20 st’s of the underbelly. This will bring you back to the head (Photo 5). Sl st in the next 2 st of the head and turn. (20) Skip the 2 sl st’s. Sc in each of the 20 st’s across. Ch 1 and bind off. Pull the ch st tight to form a knot. (20) There are now 8 st’s of the head left unworked
Second Side
You will now add 3 rows to the other side of the underbelly. Start with a sl knot already on your hook. With the outside of the crocodile facing you, insert your hook into the second to last available stitch of the head and make a sl st (indicated with an arrow in Photo 1 and illustrated in Photo 2). If you used a stitch marker before starting the MC round around the underbelly, this will be the second st before the st marker. If you haven’t used a st marker, count the unused st’s of the head and make a sl st in the seventh one.
1- Skip the next st (indicated with an arrow in Photo 2) and sc in each of the 20 st’s down the side of the underbelly (Photo 3). This will bring you to the st marker. Ch 1 and turn so that the inside of the crocodile is facing you. (20)
2- Sc in each of the 20 st’s. This will bring you to the head. Sl st in the next 2 st’s of the head and turn. (20)
3- Skip the 2 sl st’s. Sc in each of the 20 st’s of the side. Ch 1 and bind off. Pull the ch st tight to form a knot. (20) There are now 4 st’s of the head left unworked. Hmm…is it a slipper? Note to self: crocodile baby slippers… Back - You will now work the back in rows using MC. You will not be attaching the back to the sides at this point. When you are done with this part, your crocodile should look like a peeled green banana (with legs…and a head…and no banana…you get the picture). It can be very tricky to get into the ch st’s that form the top of the popcorn's. If you crochet tightly, like me, and can’t get into them for love or money, work into the gaps between popcorn stitches instead, remembering not to accidentally skip a stitch if you do so.
1- Hold your crocodile with the head pointing towards you. Join your MC yarn by making a standing single crochet in the st of the head that already contains the last sl st join from the first side (green arrow to the right in Photo 1 below). Make a popcorn in each of the next 4 st’s (black arrows in Photo 1 below). Sc in the stitch that contains the sl st join from the other side (green arrow to the left in Photo 1 below). Ch 1 and turn. (6) Photo 2 shows you what Row 1 should look like completed (before turning). 2- Sc in each st across. Ch 1 and turn. (6)
3- Sc in the first st. Make a popcorn in each of the next 4 st’s. Sc in the last st. Ch 1 and turn. (6) 4- Sc inc in the first st, sc in the next 4 st’s, sc inc in the last st. Ch 1 and turn. (8) 5- Sc in the first st. Make a popcorn in each of the next 6 st’s. Sc in the last st. Ch 1 and turn. (8) 6- Sc in each st across. Ch 1 and turn. (8) 7- Sc in the first st. Make a popcorn in each of the next 6 st’s. Sc in the last st. Ch 1 and turn. (8) 8- Sc in each st across. Ch 1 and turn. (8)
9- Sc in the first st. Make a popcorn in each of the next 6 st’s. Sc in the last st. Ch 1 and turn. (8) 10- Sc in each st across. Ch 1 and turn. (8) 11- Sc in the first st. Make a popcorn in each of the next 6 st’s. Sc in the last st. Ch 1 and turn. (8) 12- Sc in each st across. Ch 1 and turn. (8) 13- Sc in the first st. Make a popcorn in each of the next 6 st’s. Sc in the last st. Ch 1 and turn. (8) 14- Sc in each st across. Ch 1 and turn. (8) 15- Sc2tog, make a popcorn in each of the next 4 st’s, sc2tog. Ch 1 and turn. (6) 16- Sc in each st across. Ch 1 and turn. (6)17- Sc in the first st. Make a popcorn in each of the next 4 st’s. Sc in the last st. Ch 1 and turn. (6) 18- Sc in each st across. Ch 1 and turn. (6)19- Sc2tog, make a popcorn in each of the next 2 st’s, sc2tog. Ch 1 and turn. (4) 20- Sc in each st across. Ch 1 and turn. (4) 21- Sc in each st across. Ch 1, but don’t bind off, because you will now attach the back to the first side. (4)
Attaching the Back to the First Side
Sandwich the top (back) and the side closest to your hook together. The crocodile’s back should be facing you. Insert your hook into the last st of Row 20 of the back (so the first hole down the side of the back – indicated with an arrow in Photo 1) and into the last st of the last row of the side (Photo 2). Make a sc through both layers. Insert your hook into the next row of the back and into the next st of the side and make a sc through both layers. You have now made 2 sc’s. Continue making 17 more sc’s through both layers, working into each row of the back and each stitch of the side (Photos 3 and 4). Sl st through both layers of the last st and bind off.
Attaching the Back to the Second Side
Sandwich the back and the other side of the crocodile together. The head should be pointing to your right (left if you are left-handed). The back should be facing you. You are going to start at the end closest to the head this time so, with a sl knot already on your hook, insert your hook into the first row of the back and into the first stitch of the last row of the side (Photo 1). Make a sl st through both layers. Insert your hook into the next row of the back and into the next stitch of the side and make a sc through both layers. Continue making 18 more sc’s through both layers, working into each row of the back and each st of the side (Photos 2 – 4). Do not bind off. You will now make the tail. Photo 3 shows you that the sc’s should make a flat edge on the side of the body, while making a ridge on the top of the body.- The tail is worked in a spiral around the hole at the back of the crocodile’s body.
Stuff the body before starting the tail. Stuff the tail as you go!
2- Sc in the next 4 st’s, sc2tog, sc in the next 8 st’s, sc2tog. RSM (14)3- Sc in the next st. Make a fpdc into the last st of the ridge on the crocodile’s side. To do this, yarn over and insert your hook into the last st of the ridge (indicated with an arrow in Photo 4 and illustrated in Photo 5). Yarn over, pull through, and complete a dc as normal. This will form a continuation of the ridge (Photo 6). Sc in the next 3 st’s. Make a fpdc into the last st of the ridge on the other side. Sc in the next 10 st’s. RSM (16)
4- Sc2tog, sc in the next st, make a popcorn in each of the next 2 st’s, sc in the next st. Sc2tog, sc in the next 8 st’s. RSM (14)
5- Sc in the next st. Make a fpdc around the fpdc from Round 3. Skip the next st of Round 4 and sc in the next 2 popcorns. Make a fpdc around the fpdc from Round 3. Skip the next st of Round 4 and sc in the next st. Sc2tog, sc in the next 4 st’s, sc2tog. RSM (12)
6- Sc in the next 3 st’s. Make a popcorn in the next st. Sc in the next 8 st’s. RSM (12)
7- Fpdc around the fpdc from Round 5. Skip the next st. Sc in the popcorn st. Sc in the next st. Fpdc around the fpdc from Round 5. Skip the next st. Sc2tog. Sc in the next 4 st’s. RSM (10)
8- Sc2tog, hdc in the next 3 st’s. Sc in the next 3 st’s. RSM (8)
9- Sc in the next st. Fpdc around the fpdc from Round 7. Skip the next st and make a popcorn in the next st. Fpdc around the fpdc from Round 7. Skip the next st. Sc in the next 4 st’s. RSM (8)
Note: If you find it hard to see if you have skipped a stitch before the 4 sc’s, count 4 st’s back from the stitch marker to identify the next st to work into. The last sc of the 4 sc’s should fall in the stitch before the stitch marker.
10- Sc in each st around. RSM (8)
11- Sc in the first 2 st’s. Fpdc around the fpdc from Round 9. Skip the next 2 st’s and fpdc around the next fpdc from Round 9. Sc in the last 4 st’s. RSM (8)
13- Hdc in the next 2 st’s. Sc2tog. Sc in the next 2 st’s. RSM (6)
14- Sc in the next st. Fpdc around each of the 2 fpdc’s from Round 11 and skip the next 2 st’s. Sc in the last 3 sts’. (6)
15- Sc in the next st. Make a fpdc around both of the fpdc’s from Round 13. Skip 3 st’s and sc in the second to last st of the round. Again, if you find it hard to see the stitches you need to skip, count 2 st’s back from the RSM and make your sc in that stitch. Sl st in the last st and bind off. Use the tail of yarn to sew the last 4 st’s shut.
Adding Eyes and Eyebrows
Embroider eyes with black thread. I suggest placing the eyes more or less where the rounding of the short rows starts (or in the stitches indicated in Short Row 11). When embroidering them on, go from one eye to the other through the head and pull on the yarn so that the eyes pull the head into a narrow peak.
Add the eyebrows just above the eyes by working across 2 rows, 4 or 5 times. Use MC yarn for this.
If you want to flatten the crocodile’s mouth/nose a little bit, use MC yarn and sew from the bottom of the mouth to the top of the mouth/nose in a few places, placing tension on the yarn so that it pulls the mouth/nose flat.
If you want a flatter body, do the same thing, making sure to catch only one strand of the stitches on the underbelly; otherwise, you will have ugly MC stitches showing. source