Materials and ColoursFor the purposes of this tutorial I am using Scheepjeswol Cotton 8 (available from Deramores) and a 3.25 mm Clover Amour Crochet Hook (US D/3 UK 10).
Remember to check the Helpful Tips before starting. There is some important information about adjusting your hook size to prevent bulging.
If you would like to see a list of all 3 versions (including size, materials, and gauge), see THIS POST. Colour Packs by Scheepjeswol and Deramores
If you are interested in the colour packs for Sophie, you can find them below. Deramores has now also put together a colour pack for the optional squares and border (details below).
Cotton 8 (Small)
Softfun (Medium)
Stonewashed XL (Large)
Optional Squares and Border Colour Packs
Round 2 Light Pink Light Rose Amazonite
Round 3 Pink Rose Green Agate
Round 4 Fuchsia Bordeaux Blue Apatite
Round 5 Light Turquoise Light Blue Moonstone
Round 6 Light Turquoise Light Blue Moonstone
Round 7 Light Turquoise Light Blue Moonstone
Round 8 Canary Light Blue Moonstone
Abbreviations
BLO – Back loop only
Bpsc – Back post single crochet
Ch – Chain
Dc – Double crochet
Fpdc – Front post double crochet
Fpsc – Front post single crochet
Hdc – Half-double crochet
Sc – Single crochet
Sl st – Slip stitch
St/st’s – Stitch/stitches
* – Repeat instructions between asterisks the amount of times specified. This is a hardcore repeat and will consist of multiple instructions.
() – Repeat instructions between parentheses the amount of times specified. This is a lower level repeat.
Special Stitches
Standing Stitches: Standing sc’s, hdc’s, and dc’s are stitches used to start the round without the need for the traditional beginning chain. Links to tutorials are supplied in each relevant round.
Instructions
Round 1 - Into a magic ring: ch 4 (this counts as your first dc and ch 1) and then make a dc {Photo 1}. (Ch 2, dc, ch 1, dc ) five times {Photos 2 – 4}. Ch 2 and join to the third st of the beginning ch-4 with a sl st.
If you are not familiar with working into a magic ring, this video tutorial by Tamara from Moogly is very good. Please remember, when working into a magic ring you HAVE to work away your initial tail very well. If you just cut it, your whole project might unravel!
Stitch Count: 12 dc’s, 6 ch-2 spaces and 6 ch-1 spaces
Round 2 - If you are going to use the same colour for Round 2, sl st into the next ch-1 space, ch 1 and sc in the same space.If you are going to use a new colour for Round 2, join your new yarn by making a standing single crochet in any ch-1 space around {Photo 1}.
(Make 5 dc’s in the next ch-2 space {Photo 2}, sc in the next ch-1 space {Photo 3}) five times. Make 5 dc’s in the last ch-2 space {Photo 4}. Join to the first sc with a sl st. Stitch Count: 30 dc’s and 6 sc’s {6 Petals}
If you are using a new colour, join your new colour with a fpsc around the post of any sc from the previous round. You will make the fpsc exactly the same as the standing single crochet, but working around the post of the stitch instead of into the top 2 loops {Photos 1 and 2}.
*(Dc, ch 1) in the next 4 dc’s. Dc in the last dc {Photo 3}. Fpsc in the next sc {Photo 4}.* Repeat from * to * 5 more times, omitting the last fpsc on the last repeat. Join to the top of the first sc with a sl st.
If you started with a standing fpsc, you might find it tricky to join to it with a sl st. Pull the beginning tail of yarn so that you can see the top loops of the stitch. If you cannot manage to poke your hook through both loops, you are more than welcome to join to the FLO of the standing fpsc.
You should now have 6 Petals. Each Petal should contain 5 dc’s and 4 ch-1 spaces. There should be one FPsc between Petals. Stitch Count: 30 dc’s, 6 fpsc’s, and 24 ch-1 spaces {6 Petals}
If you are using the same colour, ch 1 and fpsc around the post of the same fpsc as the sl st join.
If you are using a new colour, start with a fpsc around the post of any fpsc around {Photo 1}.
*Hdc in the first dc. This first dc might be slightly tricky to get into because it is right next to the fpsc. (Ch 1, dc in the next dc, ch 1, dc in the next ch-1 space) twice. Ch 1 and dc in the next dc {Photo 2}. Ch 1 and hdc in the last dc. Fpsc in the next fpsc {Photo 3}.* Repeat from * to * 5 more times, omitting the last fpsc on the last repeat. Join to the first fpsc with a sl st. Fasten off and change colours.
Stitch Counts:
Total: 48 st’s and 36 ch-1 spaces {6 fpsc’s, 12 hdc’s, 30 dc’s, and 36 ch-1 spaces}
Per Petal: 2 hdc’s, 5 dc’s, and 6 ch-1 spaces per petal {1 fpsc between petals}
Join your new yarn by making a standing single crochet around the back of the post of the last dc of any petal around {Photos 1 and 2}. Phew…I say “of” a lot in that sentence! Hehe. You are basically starting with a standing back post sc.
*Ch 2 and fpdc around the post of the fpsc between the petals. (Ch 2, bpsc around the post of the next dc) 5 times.* Repeat from * to * 5 more times. Omit the last bpsc of the last repeat. Join to the first bpsc with a sl st.
Stitch Counts:
Total: 30 bpsc’s, 6 fpdc’s, and 36 ch-2 spaces
Per Petal: 5 bpsc’s and 6 ch-2 spaces per petal, and 1 fpdc between petals
If you are going to use a different colour, start with a standing double crochet in the next ch-2 space. Ch 2 and dc in the next ch-2 space. These 2 dc’s should fall on either side of the fpdc from the previous round {Photo 1}.
*Ch 2 and hdc in the next ch-2 space. (Ch 2, sc in the next ch-2 space) twice. Ch 2, hdc in the next ch-2 space. (Ch 2, dc in the next ch-2 space) twice {Photo 2}.* Repeat from * to * 4 more times.
Ch 2 and hdc in the next ch-2 space. (Ch 2, sc in the next ch-2 space) twice. Ch 2 and hdc in the next ch-2 space. Ch 2 and join to the third ch of the beginning ch-5 (or the standing double crochet) with a sl st.
Notice that the dc’s fall on either side of the fpdc’s from the previous round {Photo 2}. Notice also that I am using yellow in Photos 1 and 2 so that you can see the stitch placement better.
Stitch Count: 36 st’s and 36 ch-2 spaces {12 sc’s, 12 hdc’s, 12 dc’s and 36 ch-2 spaces}
Round 7 - If you are going to use the same colour, sl st into the next ch-2 space. Ch 1 and make 2 sc’s in the same ch-2 space.If you are going to use a different colour, start with a standing single crochet in the next ch-2 space and then make another sc in the same ch-2 space. Make 2 sc’s in the next ch-2 space. Make 3 sc’s in the next ch-2 space. *Make 2 sc’s in each of the next 2 ch-2 spaces, make 3 sc’s in the next ch-2 space.* Repeat from * to * 10 more times. Join to the BLO of the first sc with a sl st.
Stitch Count: 84 sc’s ... Count your stitches!
Round 8
You will be working in the back loops only (BLO) for this round. If you are going to use the same colour, ch 2 (this counts as your first hdc). If you are going to use a different colour, start with a standing hdc in the BLO of the same st as the sl st join. {Photo 1}
Hdc in the BLO of the next 5 st’s and make 2 hdc’s in the BLO of the next st {Photo 2}. *Hdc in the BLO of the next 6 st’s, make 2 hdc’s in the BLO of the next st.* Repeat from * to * 10 more times. Join to the top of the beginning ch-2 (or the standing hdc) with a sl st.
Stitch Count: 96 hdc’s (worked into the BLO) There! Now that wasn’t so hard, was it?
If you want to check your gauge, this is an excellent time to do it. Refer to the Gauge listed HERE to check if you are on the right track.
Mandala Universe Part 2
Mandala Universe Part 3
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